Among the Volunteers

Today was the second day in a row and the fourth time in the past five days I have been in Elbasan. Today was “Simulation Station” test with the program staff and “Meet and Greet” with current Peace Corps volunteers.

The “Simulation Station” exercise was actually fun. It was a warm, clear spring day and we walked around the center of town in small groups, each accompanied by one of the teaching staff. We visited a high school, open market, Orthodox Church, a local (coffee bar), then two stations at the Peace Corps office. We had to talk with people at each station and get answers to certain practical questions, all in Albanian, like a verbal scavenger hunt. Our staff escort rated our performance. The high school had a class of seniors who answered our questions about the school but asked as many questions of us. Who were we, where were we from, what were we doing in Albania? “The Peace Corps is a humanitarian, apolitical, American organization that assists foreign countries” is the approved response, in Shqip, of course. The church was the historic church in the center of the castle of Elbasan. It was built under the Byzantines about 15 centuries ago. One of the priests met us there in the beautiful, ancient sanctuary and in front of the incredible iconography, patiently answered our questions. In the market, we had to plan a dinner menu and see if we could buy the ingredients within a set budget of 2000 lek (the Albanian currency, about 20 US dollars). The market people were very obliging of us on a busy market day even though we didn’t actually buy anything. In the local we met an Elbansani man who works for the Peace Corps. We asked and were asked about ourselves and our families. I hadn’t known he was engaged and planned to marry in September. Then we walked to the office where we had to discuss the layout of Elbasan with a staff member, and then, discuss the Peace Corps in general with another (founded in 1961 by President Kennedy, about 8000 volunteers throughout the world, about 70 in Albania, working in community development, health education, English education, etc.). Again, all of this was in Shqip. I think we all did pretty well considering we have been at this for less than a month.

In the afternoon, we met a group of current volunteers from around the country. We had a picnic in the park and played Frisbee and Whiffle-ball. Many of us bought a suvlaq from a nearby stand. This is an Albanian taco, served on flat bread that is sort of between pita bread and a tortilla. There is yogurt sauce, onions, tomatoes, lettuce, some sort of roasted meat (lamb, I think) and, get this Idaho, french fries, in the sandwich! They talked with us casually about their experiences and where they served. One was in his 70’s and is a retired computer systems engineer from Massachusetts who is working in Elbasan, teaching at the university. He is on his second Peace Corps tour, having served previously in Central Asia. Most were in their 20’s or 30’s. Some are finishing this year; others have a year to go. One had a small pet poodle, so I got a bit of contact with a nice dog (most dogs in Albania are used as guards and are not to be casually approached). I didn’t get the bus back to Thane until almost 6.

I am probably an old fogey and I don’t smoke or drink (I admit I quit smoking years ago just so I could give sanctimonious lectures about the harmful effects of tobacco), but I am a bit concerned by how many of the volunteers smoke cigarettes, drink a lot of beer or are overweight. Since France banned smoking in most locations, Albania may be the most welcoming country for the tobacco addict. People light up anywhere they choose here, restaurants, buses, stores, wherever and whenever. Cigarettes are only about a dollar a pack. Alcohol is also a problem here, and, like in the US is a major factor in accidents and assaults, although raki (the local white lightning made from plum or grape brandy) is preferred, and, again, it is inexpensive. Physical fitness is not something of importance to girls or people over the age of 60. These topics are covered by health educators in the schools and communities, but Peace Corps volunteers are supposed to be 24/7 role models. I wonder if such outings, however good for the morale of new volunteers, effects the image of our program.

Maybe I am being overly concerned. The Peace Corps is supposed to represent the diversity of America. There are black, Asian, Hispanic, homosexual, short, tall, etc. Why should Americans who are obese, smokers or drinkers not be represented? Statistically, overweight Americans are a more accurate representation. Smokers and heavy drinkers also make up a significant slice of the population.

However, since I am about the age of the parents of most of the volunteers, I worry about the health styles adopted by some of my Corps-mates. I am supposed to be a health educator and I figure if I can’t educate my cohorts about health, how can I expect to do anything with Albanians. So after a month training in organizing community based health promotion, I decided to approach my Peace Corps “community” as a project. I have talked with some of the others and have started a “Self Help Forum”. Since we don’t have reliable internet access we are doing this by passing around files on flash drives that we all have. It is set up to pass around tips in four areas, “Comfort, Fitness, Health and Morale”. The discussion includes ways to keep poorly insulated homes warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, exercise regimens used by some of the volunteers, health problems we have had and how we dealt with them, and ideas for staying in contact and supporting our peers. We have lots of expertise among us; engineers, educators, architects, psychologists, ecologists, social workers, physical therapists, nurses, and, even one doctor. I don’t know if it will do any good, but then, with the Peace Corps one never knows in advance the answer to that question. Service is the effort, not the outcome.